Southern New Mexico Beekeepers


Southern New Mexico Beekeepers

Members: 51
Latest Activity: 6 hours ago

Another petition

Here is another petition from Credo, I don’t see a conflict in signing two petitions, we sure could use the pressure.

My bees thank you!


Discussion Forum

New to beekeeping

Hello everyone, I'm happy to announce my new found hobby. I've web interested for years and now have time/space to get it going. I normally use reclaimed materials and hand make everything, adds a…Continue

Started by Jason Patton 6 hours ago.

Dog Canyon 1 Reply

Has anyone got the bees in Dog Canyon yet? If not, I will go. Claude Claflin 575-430-2911Continue

Started by Claude Claflin. Last reply by Rob Shepler yesterday.

Swarm 7 Replies

A student told me this morning that there was a swarm around one of her trees yesterday afternoon, and they were still there this morning, and they settled on the tree a bit later. I'm too new to…Continue

Started by Gloria Villaverde. Last reply by Paul McCarty Apr 17.

New Hive 1 Reply


Started by Kevin W. Thatcher. Last reply by Paul McCarty Apr 10.

Comment Wall


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Comment by Paul McCarty on October 27, 2013 at 7:04pm

Sounds great!

Comment by Sam Barden on October 27, 2013 at 4:36pm

Although at night it has been getting into the mid-20's here in Sunspot, my bees, as of last weekend, were still bringing in pollen during the day.  I'm guessing that they must venture down the slopes towards Alamogordo as the flowers up here are almost all gone from the freezes.  They stopped taking sugar water a while ago, but are feasting on the sugar candy I've given them.  Still lots of brood in the comb and honey being stored above the brood and in honey only combs.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 26, 2013 at 7:05pm

The heat depends on the sugar to water ratio as well as the altitude.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 26, 2013 at 7:03pm

Just leave it out (the pollen sub). The temps are what I use here in High Rolls.

Comment by Diana Calkins on October 26, 2013 at 5:56pm

Can it be made without the pollen substitute?

Do you compensate for altitude when figuring the boiling temperature?  From my candy making days I learned to lower the recommended temp 12 degrees in order to not burn the mixture.  The amount to lower it by depends on your altitude.  Here in High Rolls, water boils at approximately 200 degrees.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 25, 2013 at 10:48pm

Leave out the lemongrass if you are worried about robbing - it's a dinner bell to bees.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 25, 2013 at 10:47pm

If they are top bar hives, you may have to get creative on how to feed it to them. You can feed syrup if you put it in the back in an open spot so that robbers have to go through the front. I have been feeding my lighter hives with no problems.

Here is my recipe:


Mix 4 lbs sugar with 2 cups of water and 1 tblspoon of apple cider vinegar. Bring to boil at around 220-238 degrees (soft ball). When boiling, stir continuously. Mixture will get milky and foam up, then will turn clear and foam will stop when it reaches the candy point. (If mixture turns brown, throw it out!) Remove from heat and stir in 1-2 cups pollen substitute and lemongrass oil (10 drops). Mix with blender until white and creamy. Pour into mold. Makes two large bricks. Caution -Burned sugar will kill bees!

Comment by Jeanne Kjos on October 25, 2013 at 6:43am


What is your candy receipe?  I have one hive that could probably use a little extra, but didn't want to feed syrup in case the stronger hive next to them started robbing them.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 24, 2013 at 9:18pm

Ken - the cold should take care of those wax moths, but keep picking them out when you see them. Chances are, they are eating the wax and cocoons around the edges of the cluster. Sometimes they will get inside the comb in the cluster, and you will see how the bees have repaired the damage after they move through. If the bees are strong enough, they should keep them in check.

Don't split apart the brood-nest unless you have to, just to make certain you don't kill the queen. .

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 24, 2013 at 9:12pm

Someone down there at ADN is not our friend, though the author is helping us. quite a bit. Editor maybe?

Anyway - I have 23 hives going into winter.Of these, only three are what I would term weak, only in the fact that they are light on stores. They are squished down into single 8 frame deeps, and at a local alfalfa farm so they can get some extra feed in before the freeze hits, though I have been feeding them too, and will load them up with dry sugar or candy here very soon.

My other hives are all pretty strong, and two are still making honey off the globemallow Ken mentioned - also the cowpen daisies that just finished. Purple asters were also blooming last I checked. I had to add a second super to several two weeks back and they are just about full. I will use the extra honey for select weaker hives. I have two nucs I will be overwintering too. Both are double 5 frame nucs and chock full of honey and bees. Plan to split them in spring by simply splitting the boxes. One is a swarm that moved into an empty hive around the start of September. I have been feeding the snot out of them for weeks. They are a comb building beast! Dark and sort of scary too. I have pretty much decided they didn't come from my bees as they really do not resemble them in any way, and the queen is totally unlike any of my current queens. She is very dark brownish with heavy stripes. They act really wild. The bees are really dark too. I bet they are feral locals. My queens are mostly golden or black with very faint or non-existent striping. Every-time I open mated a queen this year, I get a really dark, dark queen as progeny. Last year, when Garcia's was pollinating the local orchard, I got really yellow stripy queens. I didn't raise any while they were here this year - if they came. I don't think they did. So my homegrown queens are dark - almost black. Especially the ones I raised on the local mountain peak headed up towards Sunspot.


Members (51)



The New Mexico Beekeepers Association is a non-profit organization of private beekeepers, commercial beekeepers, persons interested in promoting the importance of the honey bee in the environment, and businesses related to the honey industry. Representing all regions of New Mexico, the Association maintains a close affiliation with the State of New Mexico's Department of Agriculture. Membership in the Association is open to all interested persons.


2014 Association Officers

President: Jessie Brown,

Vice President: Craig Noorlander,

Secretary: Mike Fickling,

Treasurer: D.J. Nickles,


Phill Remick,

Taylor Horst,


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