Southern New Mexico Beekeepers

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Southern New Mexico Beekeepers

Members: 48
Latest Activity: 11 hours ago

Another petition

Here is another petition from Credo, I don’t see a conflict in signing two petitions, we sure could use the pressure.

https://act.credoaction.com/campaign/efsa_bees/?p=efsa_bees&rc=chaser&r=6996345&id=54325-5812978-E9pvcxx

My bees thank you!

 

Discussion Forum

New Hive 1 Reply

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Started by Kevin W. Thatcher. Last reply by Paul McCarty Apr 10.

Pics of bees and Bloosoms

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Started by Kevin W. Thatcher Apr 10.

Is tipping necessary? 2 Replies

I asked Rob a question today he didn't have an answer for so I'm putting it out to the group.I was asked by a potential land owning bee landlord if there was any honey in it for him? I really didn't…Continue

Started by Kenneth Lee Henderson. Last reply by Paul McCarty Apr 7.

Southern NM Hive Count 25 Replies

In another forum, Paul put out the question, "So how many hives everybody going into winter with?"  This is a great question and a means to get some stats for our area?So beeks in southern NM, how…Continue

Started by Diana Calkins. Last reply by Paul McCarty Mar 22.

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Comment by Paul McCarty on October 26, 2013 at 7:05pm

The heat depends on the sugar to water ratio as well as the altitude.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 26, 2013 at 7:03pm

Just leave it out (the pollen sub). The temps are what I use here in High Rolls.

Comment by Diana Calkins on October 26, 2013 at 5:56pm

Can it be made without the pollen substitute?

Do you compensate for altitude when figuring the boiling temperature?  From my candy making days I learned to lower the recommended temp 12 degrees in order to not burn the mixture.  The amount to lower it by depends on your altitude.  Here in High Rolls, water boils at approximately 200 degrees.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 25, 2013 at 10:48pm

Leave out the lemongrass if you are worried about robbing - it's a dinner bell to bees.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 25, 2013 at 10:47pm

If they are top bar hives, you may have to get creative on how to feed it to them. You can feed syrup if you put it in the back in an open spot so that robbers have to go through the front. I have been feeding my lighter hives with no problems.

Here is my recipe:

Candy

Mix 4 lbs sugar with 2 cups of water and 1 tblspoon of apple cider vinegar. Bring to boil at around 220-238 degrees (soft ball). When boiling, stir continuously. Mixture will get milky and foam up, then will turn clear and foam will stop when it reaches the candy point. (If mixture turns brown, throw it out!) Remove from heat and stir in 1-2 cups pollen substitute and lemongrass oil (10 drops). Mix with blender until white and creamy. Pour into mold. Makes two large bricks. Caution -Burned sugar will kill bees!

Comment by Jeanne Kjos on October 25, 2013 at 6:43am

Paul,

What is your candy receipe?  I have one hive that could probably use a little extra, but didn't want to feed syrup in case the stronger hive next to them started robbing them.

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 24, 2013 at 9:18pm

Ken - the cold should take care of those wax moths, but keep picking them out when you see them. Chances are, they are eating the wax and cocoons around the edges of the cluster. Sometimes they will get inside the comb in the cluster, and you will see how the bees have repaired the damage after they move through. If the bees are strong enough, they should keep them in check.

Don't split apart the brood-nest unless you have to, just to make certain you don't kill the queen. .

Comment by Paul McCarty on October 24, 2013 at 9:12pm

Someone down there at ADN is not our friend, though the author is helping us. quite a bit. Editor maybe?

Anyway - I have 23 hives going into winter.Of these, only three are what I would term weak, only in the fact that they are light on stores. They are squished down into single 8 frame deeps, and at a local alfalfa farm so they can get some extra feed in before the freeze hits, though I have been feeding them too, and will load them up with dry sugar or candy here very soon.

My other hives are all pretty strong, and two are still making honey off the globemallow Ken mentioned - also the cowpen daisies that just finished. Purple asters were also blooming last I checked. I had to add a second super to several two weeks back and they are just about full. I will use the extra honey for select weaker hives. I have two nucs I will be overwintering too. Both are double 5 frame nucs and chock full of honey and bees. Plan to split them in spring by simply splitting the boxes. One is a swarm that moved into an empty hive around the start of September. I have been feeding the snot out of them for weeks. They are a comb building beast! Dark and sort of scary too. I have pretty much decided they didn't come from my bees as they really do not resemble them in any way, and the queen is totally unlike any of my current queens. She is very dark brownish with heavy stripes. They act really wild. The bees are really dark too. I bet they are feral locals. My queens are mostly golden or black with very faint or non-existent striping. Every-time I open mated a queen this year, I get a really dark, dark queen as progeny. Last year, when Garcia's was pollinating the local orchard, I got really yellow stripy queens. I didn't raise any while they were here this year - if they came. I don't think they did. So my homegrown queens are dark - almost black. Especially the ones I raised on the local mountain peak headed up towards Sunspot.

Comment by Kenneth Lee Henderson on October 24, 2013 at 11:33am

It is slowly becoming winter down in the basin but my bees are still bringing in something. I see many of them with their pollen pouches loaded with a reddish-orange stuff. Wondering if it is globemallow pollen? I know the bees like it, it has a flower the same color as the stuff the bee's are packing, and it really started blooming after the rains.

I have started feeding syrup to all my 3 hives. Was wondering how often and how much? I am using pint jars enclosed by an empty super box atop the hive box to prevent robbing as suggested by Paul. Seems to be working OK. I have been checking the jars about once a week and they are always empty. Should I be feeding more often?

I bought a small single outlet hummingbird feeder and hung it so the outlet is almost inside the entrance of the tree bees. This seems to be working well as I see no signs other bees are trying to rob it, i.e. no fighting over it. They empty it in less than two days as it is quite small.

While feeding the toilet tank bees (the only ones in a real hive box) I always inspect for wax moth larva. This time I found 11. The larva was most active as I scooped them out onto the ground but one dropped into the center of the working hive. Will the bees kill it, hopefully? Do these moths go away in the winter?

The cocoons are always on the outer frames where there is no comb. As I get into the frames where the bees are starting to build comb they are absent so I guess the system works. I am hesitant to break into the inner hive's 4 central frames to inspect for fear of doing damage from my ignorance. Paul advised me to let them alone to build up and it seems to be working, just not too rapidly.

My apologies for the lengthy post. I have been meaning to do this for a few weeks.

Lastly, I too thought the headline of the Oct. 23 ADN seemed kind of inflammatory considering the recent passing of the beekeeping ordinance. 

Comment by Rob Shepler on October 24, 2013 at 10:11am

So, final checks before winter and I come across one colony that has no brood what so ever. It is a shame as it is one of the best and it has done pretty well and even got passed up by the bear. A good honey load and some pretty good pollen. As time is short and night is coming I choose to combine it in a few days with a late season swarm capture that is doing pretty well but didn’t really have much time to build before the frosts took out the flow.

 

A week later I am back to it with newspaper in hand and decide on one last peek, a queen! She is fat and sassy and the girls seem to like her, the population is still pretty heavy and there is still NO BROOD or eggs.

 

Judgment call, combine? Or try to save the genes of one of the few colonies that has done well for me this year?

 

What is your call? What would you do?

 

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Welcome

The New Mexico Beekeepers Association is a non-profit organization of private beekeepers, commercial beekeepers, persons interested in promoting the importance of the honey bee in the environment, and businesses related to the honey industry. Representing all regions of New Mexico, the Association maintains a close affiliation with the State of New Mexico's Department of Agriculture. Membership in the Association is open to all interested persons.

 

2014 Association Officers

President: Jessie Brown, president@nmbeekeepers.org

Vice President: Craig Noorlander, vicepresident@nmbeekeepers.org

Secretary: Mike Fickling, secretary@nmbeekeepers.org

Treasurer: D.J. Nickles, treasurer@nmbeekeepers.org

Board: 

Phill Remick, memberatlarge1@nmbeekeepers.org

Taylor Horst, memberatlarge2@nmbeekeepers.org

 

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